Dermaplaning is a popular skincare treatment in Canada, known for its ability to smooth skin and improve its appearance by removing dead skin cells and peach fuzz. However, mistakes during the process can lead to irritation, infections, or uneven results. Here are five common errors people make and how to avoid them:
- Using dull or incorrect blades: This can cause cuts, uneven exfoliation, or skin damage. Always use sharp, surgical-grade blades designed for dermaplaning.
- Skipping proper skin prep and aftercare: Inadequate cleaning before or after treatment can lead to irritation, redness, or breakouts. Clean, dry skin is essential, and post-treatment care like sunscreen is crucial.
- Incorrect technique and pressure: Holding the blade at the wrong angle or applying too much pressure can harm the skin. The ideal blade angle is 45 degrees with light, controlled strokes.
- Poor tool hygiene: Failure to sanitize tools properly can result in infections. Clean, disinfect, and sterilize tools after every use.
- Treating unsuitable skin: Dermaplaning isn’t safe for everyone. Avoid it on skin with active acne, sunburn, or certain medical conditions.
Dermaplaning Mistakes to Avoid | Dermatologist's Tips #shorts
Using Dull or Wrong Blades
The success of dermaplaning hinges on one crucial element: a sharp, suitable blade. Yet, a common mistake - whether by professionals or individuals - is using the wrong type of blade or continuing to work with a dull one. This seemingly small error can turn a treatment meant to rejuvenate the skin into one that causes harm.
Problems with Dull or Incorrect Blades
A blade that’s lost its sharpness or isn’t designed for dermaplaning can compromise both safety and results. Dull blades require extra pressure, which increases the risk of nicks, cuts, and abrasions on delicate facial skin. Instead of gliding smoothly, they tug and drag, leading to uneven exfoliation - some areas may be over-treated, while others are left untouched.
The consequences don’t stop at physical damage. Candace Jordan from DermaplanePro highlights a serious warning: "Using counterfeit blades can result in client reactions, infections, nicks/cuts, and dangerous outcomes". Counterfeit or low-quality blades often contain inconsistent amounts of nickel, which can cause allergic reactions or complications that surface hours or even days after treatment.
Poorly made blades often have rough edges or uneven surfaces, which scrape rather than cut through dead skin cells and fine hair. This scraping action can create micro-tears in the skin, opening the door to bacteria and triggering inflammation. The aftermath? Redness, irritation, and a weakened skin barrier that may take days or weeks to heal.
To avoid these risks, selecting the right blade is non-negotiable.
How to Choose the Right Blades
For dermaplaning, always opt for surgical-grade, sterile blades designed specifically for facial treatments. Here’s a breakdown of the most commonly used blade types and their purposes:
- #10 Blade: With its curved edge, this blade is perfect for larger areas like the cheeks and forehead. It works well for most skin types but may struggle in tighter spots around the nose and jawline.
- #10R Blade: Ideal for beginners or clients with sensitive skin, this blade features a rounded tip that reduces the risk of accidental nicks. It’s especially useful for working around delicate areas or treating reactive skin.
- #14 Blade: Its curved design offers precision, making it great for detailed work on areas like the forehead and chin. For even more intricate areas, such as around the nose or under the eyes, some professionals turn to #15 blades, though these require advanced skill.
When choosing blades, ensure they’re made from high-quality stainless or carbon steel and come in sterile foil packaging. Always purchase from authorised distributors and inspect each blade for flaws like rough edges or discolouration. Before using a new blade type, test it on a small area to confirm its performance.
When to Replace and Dispose of Blades
Replacing blades regularly is essential for maintaining both safety and effectiveness. Professionals recommend replacing blades after every 3-4 uses or monthly, whichever comes first. However, the best indicator is performance - if the blade feels dull or no longer glides effortlessly, it’s time for a replacement.
As Dewy Hours advises, "We recommend replacing the blade every 3-5 shaves but it's totally up to you. Once you feel the blade is dull and your shave is no longer as smooth, that's your sign to replace the blade". This ensures consistent results, prioritising quality over arbitrary timelines.
Between uses, clean dermaplaning tools with rubbing alcohol and store them in a clean, dry place. After each treatment, disinfect the razor handle with an alcohol wipe to prevent bacterial buildup.
For safe disposal, store used blades in a sturdy metal container, like a mint tin, until it’s full. Once filled, recycle the container and its contents as scrap metal through local municipal programs. Some suppliers even offer recycling programs to make disposal easier.
In Canada, hygiene standards for professional treatments require treating each blade as single-use, even if personal use guidelines allow multiple applications. This eliminates cross-contamination risks and upholds the highest level of care for every client.
Poor Skin Prep and Aftercare
Skipping proper skin preparation and aftercare can undermine the results of dermaplaning and increase the risk of complications. Unfortunately, many people overlook these steps, treating them as optional rather than essential for a safe and effective treatment.
Problems from Poor Skin Prep
When skin isn't properly prepped, dermaplaning can do more harm than good. Leftover oils, bacteria, dirt, makeup, and product residue create an environment ripe for breakouts and infections.
Celebrity facialist Nicola Russell, owner of Skin Geek clinic, highlights the risks of poor preparation:
"If the skin has been overworked, then your skin's barrier will be impaired and you will be left red, inflamed, and sensitive, and many skin care products will irritate it."
Using harsh or abrasive cleansers before treatment can weaken the skin's natural barrier. Similarly, failing to stop exfoliating products - like retinoids or glycolic acids - 3 to 5 days before dermaplaning can leave skin oversensitized and prone to irritation.
Another common issue is improper moisture balance. Excess oil or heavy creams can interfere with blade control, leading to uneven results.
Proper preparation is key. Dr. Apratim Goel, a cosmetic dermatologist at Cutis Skin Solution in Mumbai, emphasizes:
"The skin should be dry and totally clean before dermaplaning. You should double cleanse, and use an acid-based cleanser to remove any product on the skin."
Addressing these prep issues ensures the skin is ready for treatment and sets the stage for effective aftercare.
Required Aftercare Steps
After dermaplaning, the skin is especially vulnerable. With its protective layer removed, proper aftercare is crucial to avoid complications and achieve the best results.
The first priority is protection and gentle care. Avoid direct sun exposure for at least 48 hours, as freshly treated skin is highly sensitive to UV rays. Even indoors, use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher daily to prevent sun damage and pigmentation issues.
Stick to a gentle cleanser for the first 48 hours, avoiding harsh chemicals or strong acids that could irritate the skin. Hydration is just as important - drink plenty of water and apply a light, hydrating moisturizer containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid or ceramides to help the skin recover.
For at least a week, avoid any kind of exfoliation, including scrubs, retinoids, glycolic acid products, or chemical exfoliants. These can irritate the skin and slow down healing. It's also best to wait 24 to 48 hours before applying makeup, as it can clog pores and introduce bacteria to the vulnerable skin.
Intense workouts should be avoided for 24 to 48 hours to prevent irritation from sweat. Additionally, avoid touching your face to minimize the risk of bacterial transfer.
Here’s a quick reference for key aftercare steps:
| Aftercare Category | Required Action | Timeframe | Consequence of Neglect |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sun Protection | Apply SPF 30+ sunscreen daily | Ongoing | Sun damage, pigmentation |
| Cleansing | Use gentle, mild cleansers | First 48 hours | Irritation, redness, swelling |
| Exfoliation | Avoid all exfoliating products | At least 1 week | Irritation, inflammation |
| Makeup | Refrain from makeup application | 24–48 hours | Clogged pores, breakouts |
| Exercise | Avoid intense physical activity | 24–48 hours | Irritation from sweat |
To further protect your skin, change pillowcases regularly and sanitize mobile devices to reduce bacterial exposure. Keep your skincare routine simple during the first week - this isn't the time for new products or experimental regimens. Focus on gentle cleansing, hydration, and consistent sun protection to support healing and maintain the smooth, glowing results of your dermaplaning session.
Wrong Technique and Pressure
Once you’ve chosen the right tools and prepared the skin properly, the next step is to focus on technique and pressure. These elements are key to performing safe and effective dermaplaning. Mistakes in blade angle or inconsistent pressure can lead to poor results and even harm the skin.
Common Technique Mistakes
One of the most frequent errors in dermaplaning is mismanaging the blade angle and pressure. Many practitioners either hold the blade too flat against the skin or too upright, missing the ideal 45-degree angle necessary for effective treatment. As Rikki Kusy, Founder & CEO of DermaplanePro, Inc., explains:
"Check your angle – 45 degrees is the perfect angle for dermaplaning. Anything less or more and you won't get the best results."
If the blade is too flat (near 0 degrees), it will simply glide over the surface without removing dead skin cells or vellus hair. On the other hand, holding the blade closer to 90 degrees increases the risk of scratching or cutting the skin.
"The MOST common mistake when dermaplaning is not understanding the use of a 45 degree angle when working with a scalpel that is beveled! Bevel to bell…"
Pressure is another critical factor. Applying too little pressure prevents the blade from making proper contact with the skin, resulting in an ineffective treatment. Conversely, too much pressure can cause the skin to blanch, leading to irritation, redness, swelling, and even post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Overly rushed or long strokes can also cause uneven results or accidental cuts, especially if skin tension is not maintained. Just like using the wrong blade, poor technique can harm the skin and deliver less-than-ideal outcomes.
Correct Technique Methods
To master dermaplaning, start by consistently maintaining the 45-degree blade angle. For the best results, use the middle of the blade or the section just behind the ball of a No. 10 blade. Practising this angle until it becomes second nature is essential.
Pressure control is equally important. Aim for light to medium pressure - enough to remove vellus hair and dead skin cells without causing discomfort. A helpful guideline is that the skin should not blanch under the blade, and there should be no redness when you move to the next area. Open communication with the client can also be invaluable:
"How is my pressure? You should feel a little scraping sensation but no discomfort."
Client feedback helps fine-tune your technique, as every skin type reacts differently.
For stroke technique, focus on short, controlled strokes in the direction of hair growth. Work methodically in small sections while keeping the skin taut. This approach minimizes the risk of cuts and ensures the blade moves smoothly across the surface.
Why Training Matters
Proper training is essential for mastering dermaplaning. It sharpens your ability to control blade angle, pressure, and stroke technique while reinforcing safety protocols. These skills require more than just theoretical knowledge - they demand hands-on practice. As Advanced Esthetic Training highlights:
"A comprehensive dermaplaning training course equips estheticians with the skills, knowledge, and confidence needed to deliver safe and effective treatments while achieving professional success."
Training programs cover everything from blade angles to speed management, as well as how to assess and adapt to different skin types. Practical experience under expert supervision is especially important:
"Practical experience performing dermaplaning under the supervision of skilled instructors is indispensable for mastering the technique."
Even seasoned practitioners can benefit from refresher courses to correct bad habits that may have developed over time. When selecting a training program, look for one that offers a comprehensive curriculum, experienced instructors, and plenty of hands-on practice. For example, Dermaplaning Supplies Canada provides professional certification that combines technical skills with essential safety knowledge.
Investing in proper training doesn’t just build confidence - it helps deliver better results, improves client satisfaction, and enhances your professional reputation.
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Poor Tool Hygiene and Safety
When it comes to dermaplaning, maintaining strict hygiene is not just a best practice - it’s essential. Using sharp blades directly on the skin creates a risk of bacterial infections if proper sanitation is overlooked.
Health Risks from Poor Hygiene
Neglecting tool hygiene during dermaplaning can lead to serious health concerns. This procedure compromises the skin’s protective barrier, making it easier for bacteria to enter and cause infections. If tools aren't sanitized properly between clients, harmful microorganisms can spread, increasing the likelihood of complications. To avoid these risks, it's crucial to adopt consistent and thorough sanitation practices.
Proper Sanitation Methods
To reduce the risk of bacterial infections, adhere to a three-step hygiene protocol: disinfection, cleaning, and sterilization.
- Disinfect instruments after every procedure. Use medical-grade disinfectants like PREempt CS20 Disinfectant for Instrument + Devices ($29.95 CAD) or alcohol prep pads for initial cleaning. For smaller tools and surfaces, consider products like Alliance Alcohol Prep Pads, which cost $4.95 CAD for a 200-count box.
- Thoroughly clean all tools to remove contaminants and reduce bioburden. This step is essential for effective sterilization. For workspace cleaning, professional-grade wipes such as CaviWipes 2.0 Surface Disinfectant Wipes ($23.95 CAD for 160 count) or PREempt Surface Disinfectant Wipes ($27.95 CAD for 160 count) are excellent options.
- Use disposable blades and dispose of them properly to avoid cross-contamination. Place used blades in a Blade Removal Box ($15.99 CAD) for safe disposal.
Cleaning and Temperature Guidelines
Proper cleaning is only part of the equation. Sterilization is necessary to ensure tools are completely free of microorganisms.
- Sterilize tools with heat after disinfecting and cleaning. Use a hot-air sterilizer or an autoclave, which applies steam under pressure. For hot-air sterilization, maintain temperatures between 160°C and 180°C for the recommended duration. Steam sterilization requires temperatures between 121°C and 134°C under pressure. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your sterilization equipment.
- Store sterilized instruments in a sterile container to keep them ready for use. A Sterilization Tray for Facial/Beauty Tool Implement Disinfection ($14.95 CAD) is a practical option for organizing and maintaining tool hygiene.
Additionally, ensure thorough hand and equipment cleaning before starting any dermaplaning treatment. Use antibacterial hand soap like Aloe Care Antibacterial Lotion Hand Soap ($19.95 CAD for a 1-litre pump bottle). For convenience, install a Bulk Soap Dispenser/Hand Sanitizer Dispenser ($19.95 CAD) in your workspace to keep sanitization products easily accessible.
Treating Skin That Shouldn't Be Treated
Dermaplaning isn’t suitable for everyone. In fact, attempting to treat skin that's already compromised can lead to serious issues - like infections or even permanent damage. Knowing when to avoid dermaplaning is just as crucial as perfecting the technique. Let’s dive into the conditions that make dermaplaning a no-go.
Conditions That Rule Out Treatment
Certain skin conditions and medical factors make dermaplaning unsafe. For instance, active acne is a clear contraindication since the treatment could spread bacteria and worsen scarring. Similarly, inflammatory skin issues like rosacea, eczema flare-ups, psoriasis, or sunburn signal that the skin barrier is already damaged and should be left alone. Other signs of compromised skin - such as peeling, swelling, bruising, or inflammation - also rule out treatment.
Medications can be another factor. Clients on isotretinoin (Accutane) need to wait a full six months after stopping the medication before undergoing dermaplaning. Additionally, blood-thinning medications, bleeding disorders, or uncontrolled diabetes increase the risk of excessive bleeding and delayed healing. Active infections, including cold sores, herpes simplex, or any viral, bacterial, or fungal infections, are absolute contraindications. Other conditions to watch for include skin cancer, recent chemical peels or laser treatments, and a history of keloid or hypertrophic scarring. Don’t forget to check for allergies to nickel or steel, as these metals are often found in dermaplaning tools.
Client Screening Process
Once contraindications are identified, a thorough screening process is key to ensuring safe and effective treatments. Start with a detailed consultation, collecting a full health history and reviewing client records to uncover any underlying issues. Be sure to ask about medications, recent skin treatments, and any known sensitivities. For conditions that might not completely rule out treatment - so-called restrictive contraindications - seek medical clearance when necessary. If you’re unsure, encourage clients to consult their GP before proceeding.
For clients with particularly thin, delicate, or hypersensitive skin, consider performing a patch test to gauge how their skin reacts. Also, avoid treating areas with moles, skin tags, or any suspicious growths.
Conclusion
When done correctly, dermaplaning can leave skin feeling smooth and looking radiant. However, skipping essential steps can lead to unwanted side effects. Every detail matters - choosing the right blade, using proper technique, ensuring hygiene, and thoroughly screening clients are all critical for safe and effective results. Sharp, appropriate blades, meticulous skin preparation, precise technique and pressure, strict hygiene practices, and careful client evaluation form the backbone of successful dermaplaning.
Getting these steps right not only enhances skin texture and brightness but also prevents issues like infection, scarring, and irritation. Proper aftercare is equally important, as it helps maintain results and keeps complications at bay. Plus, selecting an experienced practitioner reduces the risk of cuts, uneven hair removal, and unnecessary irritation.
"Dermaplaning should always be done by a certified dermaplaning technician in order to avoid injury and adverse reactions." - Tamara Hughes, Eminence Organics Regional Sales & Education Representative
For professionals, obtaining proper training and certification in dermaplaning techniques is non-negotiable. This ensures safer treatments and better outcomes for clients. On the other hand, clients should confirm their practitioner’s credentials, disclose any skin conditions, and adhere to all pre- and post-treatment guidelines.
Equally important is recognising contraindications like active acne, sunburn, or certain medications. Ignoring these can lead to further skin damage, making careful screening a must.
In dermaplaning, precision is everything. From the choice of tools to client care, each step plays a vital role in achieving successful treatments. By avoiding these common mistakes, both practitioners and clients can ensure safer procedures and healthier, glowing skin.
FAQs
How can I tell if my skin isn’t suitable for dermaplaning?
When Is Dermaplaning Not Recommended?
Dermaplaning isn’t for everyone, especially if your skin has certain conditions. If your skin is extremely thin or fragile, prone to sensitivity, or affected by issues like eczema, active inflammation or infections, or vascular lesions (like couperose skin), it’s best to skip this treatment. Attempting dermaplaning on compromised skin can lead to irritation or even make existing problems worse.
Not sure if it’s right for you? A skincare professional can evaluate your skin type and condition to determine if dermaplaning is a safe option.
How often should I change my dermaplaning blade for safe and effective results?
To ensure safety and get the best results, it's advised to change your dermaplaning blade after every 2 to 4 uses. Continuing to use a blade past this point can dull its edge, which may lead to irritation, uneven exfoliation, or even small nicks.
For professionals offering dermaplaning services, a fresh blade should always be used for each client. This not only upholds hygiene standards but also guarantees a top-notch experience.
What are the key aftercare steps to follow for long-lasting dermaplaning results?
To keep your skin smooth and glowing after dermaplaning, it’s important to follow a few key aftercare tips:
- Use a gentle cleanser: Stick to a mild, hydrating cleanser to keep your skin clean without causing irritation.
- Avoid harsh products: Steer clear of exfoliants, retinol, or any strong skincare products for at least 48 hours to give your skin time to recover.
- Prioritise sun protection: Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every day, and try to limit direct sun exposure.
- Take a break from makeup: Let your skin breathe by skipping makeup for 1–2 days after the treatment.
These simple steps can help your skin stay healthy and radiant while minimising any risk of sensitivity or irritation.